Today we are getting close to the Arctic Circle. Other map shots are included below to give you a reference to North America to show where we are.
When discussing Blog and new Screenplay titles we got on a silly roll and landed on: How Ice is My Valley and Oslo Can You Go.
After a day of cruising and touring, our guide Judit gave a brief talk about the early history of the region today. Norway as we know it has existed since 1905. Until the discovery of their North Sea oil fields they were among the poorest nations on the planet. They now rank close to the top in per capita value and net worth. One of the interesting factoids Americans will never understand fully is that Norway has always been a monarchy of some sort. So, when they became a nation independent of Sweden and Denmark, they searched for a new king. They cast about and chose the second son of the King of Denmark, their former regent, since the first son was the heir apparent to the throne in Denmark. Without any other prospects Carl said “yes” or as Kinky Friedman famously said: “Why the hell not?” And he became King Haakon VII and Norway has a Danish king, who already had a son, named Olav V. Presumably Olav V’s son was born in Norway and assumed the throne as the first native born Norwegian king since a while back.
For our tour today we began in Trondheim formerly known as Nidaros, in reference to the river Nidar that runs through it. It was the former capital of Norway during the Viking era. Hitler had chosen Trondheim as the northern capital for the Third Reich, which I found really creepy, but what can one say? It is a lovely place and dates back to the 900’s if not before as a stronghold and trading center.
The cathedral there is among the great stone creations in Europe and certainly in Norway. The king and queen are now blessed (not crowned- so Norwegian to not elevate oneself above the other) in the great nave. The legend surrounding the Cathedral begins with King Olav II who was killed in battle July 29, 1028 and buried at the site of what would become the Cathedral. After his burial, a spring was said to have started flowing from the grave site. When his body was exhumed a year later, it was discovered that his beard and finger nails were growing and that his cheeks were still a ruddy pink. Moreover, his corpse emitted a rose and lilac scent. The word spread and soon it was found that the waters flowing from spring held healing qualities and pilgrims from all over the region began pouring in to Nirados. The cathedral was begun atop his burial ground and through fits and starts, including a dozen devastating fires, one that left the building in ruins for four hundred years, it stands as a monument to Norway history and spirituality—Christian knitted closely with Norse traditions.
On the grounds outside the cathedral there is a stone carving of a man, a stone mason, who is in the act of placing the final stone into the Cathedral wall. However, the legend states that if the cathedral is ever finished a great wave will ride up the Fjord and destroy the town and the Cathedral, so it must never be completed.
After this fascinating tour, we walked through the town back down to the harbor, about a forty minute stroll.
We crossed an old bridge across the Nidar River with two wooden arches, which according to legend gives happiness to all who pass through them. Let’s hope!
Beyond that we walked through an old part of town, wooden structures not that different from our own sweet home in Dallas.
Upon our return to the Richard With we ate a lunch of salmon, potatoes, veggies, salad bar fixins and 20,000 calories of sweets, gelatins, puddings, custards, jams, jellies . . . you know, buffet fare.
After lunch we attended back to back talks, one on the geography of Norway, specifically, how the fjords were formed (rivers, glaciers and continental uplift). The second hosted by our own Judit Garzo, which brings me full circle back to the history of Norway. As a transplanted Hungarian, she was quick to point out that the Vikings were no more a “murderous breed” than any of their other contemporaries who roamed the globe looking for trade and power. That being said, one of the requirements for becoming a warrior was to jump a fence of your height with your battle gear on- so the Vikings must have been fierce in their strength.
Tonight around midnight fifteen, we see Targhatten, a unique rock formation with a hole in the middle of it that is only seen when the weather is good. So far our weather has been spectacular. Only occasional whisky clouds in a clear blue sky.
We had a quick stop at Royvik and were able to dash through an older transport/passenger ship: MS Lofoten. It reminded me of the Queen Mary moored at Long Beach.
At 10:40PM we passed by another cargo ship and as you can see, the sun is just short of setting. At 11:40PM the sun hides just below the horizon.
We must be quick to bed as we cross the Arctic Circle at about 7AM and a champagne celebration will happen at that time. Then, we have another day of cruising, touring and eating a lot of stuff that is making me fat. (and happy!)
Norway? No Way? Yes Way! 